CITY BREAK: ALBUQUERQUE, NEW MEXICO by Dorothy Jordon with Jordan Simon AT FTT we’re always on the lookout for activities and events that welcome both parents and kids, so you can imagine how pleased we were to learn that the acclaimed Jane Butel Cooking School in Albuquerque, NM offered family classes. An upcoming weekend class already had several mother/daughter and father/daughter teams signed on, a great time to check them out. Since my kids were grown, I enlisted the help of 14-year-old Jeremy Shevett, the son of a close friend and whose ambition is to become a chef. So in late June, off Jeremy and I went to Albuquerque. Although it is New Mexico’s largest city, Albuquerque often plays second, even third, fiddle to Santa Fe and Taos. But we discovered that Albuquerque is a "Hot Hot Hot" destination, from its signature red and green chiles to the world’s largest Balloon Festival (held in October). This April the city begins to celebrate its 2006 Tricentennial, with a calendar of on-going events that will further add to its multi-cultural appeal as a family destination. Albuquerque and its surrounding mountain/desert location are a hotbed of cool attractions and activities, many celebrating New Mexico’s rich Native American and Hispanic heritage. The small Old Town center amid the urban sprawl retains its Spanish Colonial air. Best yet, the city is easier than ever to negotiate, with a trolley running between the historic center, major museums and downtown shopping.
Jane Butel is recognized as one of the foremost authorities on Southwestern cuisine (with over 15 cookbooks); she’s often credited with jumpstarting the Tex-Mex mania. For good reason! Her extensive knowledge of this regional fare is quite impressive. The Jane Butel Cooking School offers weekend classes that begin on Friday night and end after lunch on Sunday. Since I am allergic to bell peppers and Jeremy to jalapeños, Jane graciously adjusted several recipes to accommodate us. Classes are small and mostly hands-on. The school’s kitchen has separate mini-kitchens so that everyone gets to do the actual prepping and cooking (after Jane explains the recipe in great detail). Jane then goes around the kitchen working individually with participants on techniques. Just about all of the diverse recipes we prepared can be easily replicated at home. Lest your home markets do not stock the various grains and spices used in the recipes, her Pecos Valley Spice Co. sells all the fixings on-site. Just about all of the participants went home loaded with a variety of chiles and masas, even Mexican oregano (quite different from its Italian counterpart). Among the dishes we made were: Sopaipillas; a variety of salsas; Guacamole; Quesadillas, Red Beef Enchiladas; Tamales and more.
In addition to the weekend classes, weeklong and three-hour workshops (a good option for those who aren’t certain that the longer courses will work for their family) are also offered. Currently, the school does not have family classes per se, although Jane says that many classes continue to include youngsters. "My first class in 1983, I had a 12-year-old. It’s a particularly great way for family members separated by circumstance or even divorce to bond. I have one pupil from Tucson who started when he was around 5 and has come every chance he gets the past nine years over spring or summer breaks. He could run the classes now! And many youngsters who started here have become chefs or professionals in the food industry!" She accepts kids 12 and over without parents or guardians, sometimes younger if she meets them in advance (but under age 9 they must have adult supervision). Classes are based at La Posada Hotel in downtown Albuquerque and are now also offered in Scottsdale, AZ at the Fairmont Princess Resort. (800-472-8229/505-243-2622/ www.janebutel.com)
Albuquerque cooks in other ways as well. Here are a few of the options that await you during your getaway: Founded in 1706, Historic Old Town charmingly preserves its Pueblo-style architecture, with its quaint central plaza dominated by San Felipe de Neri church. The compact area holds numerous art galleries, restaurants (mostly touristy) and several intriguing museums. We had gobs of fun at the American International Rattlesnake Museum: everything you did (and didn’t) want to know about snakes, through displays (cool serpent-themed artwork and memorabilia, like the poster for 1940s B Movie Cobra Woman) and live exhibits such as the world’s largest collection of different rattler species. (505-242-6596/ www.rattlesnakes.com) Albuquerque days really heat up in summer. One day Jeremy and I headed for a welcome (if not wow) cooling-off option, the Beach Waterpark. Unfortunately, since our visit the park was sold and may or may not continue. An alternative, Cliff’s Amusement Park, has everything from an extensive arcade to tame rides and thrillers, including New Mexico’s only super-coaster. There’s water fun aplenty: the rocky Sea Dragon ride, Big Flush water coaster, and the pool/artificial beach Water Monkeys’ Adventure play area. Closed October to March; weekend hours only during Spring and Fall. (505-881-9373/ www.cliffsamusementpark.com) On Saturday after cooking school, Jeremy and I and another family from our class headed to the world’s longest aerial tramway – 2.7 miles – at Sandia Peak, which provided another terrific respite from the heat. The 10,378-foot-high perch provides breathtaking panoramic views of an 11,000-square-mile area; we enjoyed a particularly sensational sunset. It also operates as a ski area in winter. (505-856-7325/ www.sandiapeak.com) Among the venues we would have visited had time permitted are: The 50,000-square-foot !Explora! Science Center and Children’s Museum of Albuquerque, a theme park to stimulate the mind, encourages creativity and exploration in the arts, sciences and technology through hands-on exhibits like visitor-controlled water fountain art, identifying the color spectrum of a leaf, crafting computer-generated artworks, and much more. (505-224-8300; www.explora.mus.nm.us) At the New Mexico Museum of Natural History & Science you can walk through a simulated live volcano, experience dry and damp caves and stroll back in time in the Evolator. The current installation is Adrenaline Rush: The Science of Risk, plus there’s a learning garden growing environmentally-friendly food, the high-tech DynaTheater and the LodeStar Astronomy Center (fascinating exhibits like the search for extraterrestrial life). Family Days spotlight something of cultural or scientific interest. (505-841-2800/ www.museums.state.nm.us/nmmnh) The sobering yet hopeful National Atomic Museum exhibits trace the story of the Atomic Age, from early research through destructive capability to today's peaceful applications of nuclear technology. In ZOOMZone, curious kids experiment with different activities and share ideas via the Internet. In Spring 2006, it moves to a larger facility, renamed the National Museum of Nuclear Science & History. (505-245-2137/ www.atomicmuseum.com) Three facilities comprise the Albuquerque BioPark: the 64-acre Rio Grande Zoological Park; the Albuquerque Aquarium; and the 20-acre Rio Grande Botanic Garden. Don’t miss the Children’s Fantasy Garden inspired by Alice in Wonderland. The admirable zoo hosts more than 250 species of exotic and indigenous animals in recreations of their natural habitats, so you almost feel you’re on safari. By September, the free, completely renovated Tingley Aquatic Water Beach Park will link the north and south BioPark facilities via narrow-gauge railway. (505-764-6200/www.cabq.gov/biopark) Families might also consider touring the excellent Albuquerque Museum (fine western art), taking in a Triple-A baseball game, touring the Petroglyph National Monument (amazing rock carvings) and exploring the legacy of indigenous peoples at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center with its living village (the cool restaurant serves only authentic Native American fare like Indian fry bread).
We stayed at La Posada de Albuquerque, where Jane’s classes are held. We enjoyed its spacious rooms and the ideal location — a few minutes’ walk to many restaurants and movie theaters, and a short cab ride (or trolley) to Old Town. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it was opened in 1939 by Conrad Hilton (who honeymooned there with Zsa Zsa Gabor) and has hosted celebrity guests such as Lucille Ball, Jimmy Stewart, JFK, Bill Gates and Al Gore. The quintessential southwestern décor features an elaborate Moorish brass and mosaic-tiled fountain, a massive, hand-crafted circular balcony and Native American war-dance murals. Many rooms have beamed ceilings; local artisans crafted all the furnishings. There’s an on-site spa and a pool and fitness center across the street are available to guests. (505-242-9090/800-777-5732/ www.laposada-abq.com) The Hyatt Regency, not far from La Posada, is another option. Facilities include a lap pool, health club and wireless T-Mobile connectivity. (505-842-1234/800-276-7415/ http://albuquerque.hyatt.com) You can’t beat the location of Albuquerque's Sheraton Old Town, a New Mexico Heritage Hotel, whose recent remodel generally brightened the drab rooms. Service is friendly and the handsome grounds include a new swimming pool, spa and fitness room. (505-843-6300/877-901-ROOM/ www.sheratonoldtown.com) A 261-unit, full-service Embassy Suites of Albuquerque opens downtown this spring, complete with gym and indoor pool/sundeck and may be worth checking out. (505-245-7100/800-EMBASSY/ www.embassusuites.com)
We ate most of our meals at the cooking school but twice feasted at Tucanos Brazilian Grill, located steps from the hotel. The restaurant, part of a small chain in the Southwest, could convert the most dedicated vegetarians with its juicy beef, chicken, pork and seafood kebabs and churrascos (grills); don’t worry, there’s a vast salad bar, too. It’s lively and affordable, with special kids’ menus and prices. (505-246-9900) The nostalgic Route 66 Diner recreates the Eisenhower Era with neon-wrapped exterior, pseudo-Burma Shave ads, rocking 1950s jukebox (not just Bill Haley or The King), even waitresses in ruffle-edged uniforms and saddle shoes. It’s a great place for basic, classic burgers, chicken-fried steak and real ice-cream shakes. (505-247-1421) Garduño’s, with several locations, is part of a western chain of festive Tex-Mex eateries, with strolling mariachi band, hacienda-like décor and waterfalls. (888-666-5514/ www.gardunosrestaurants.com) One evening the street behind La Posada was host to a local fair, with street food vendors, a band and local families.
The Albuquerque Convention & Visitors Bureau website, www.itsatrip.org, is an excellent source for events (you can log in specific dates to see what’s going on), late-breaking news and special promotions, as well as attractions, hotels, restaurants, local culture, etc.
New Mexico Kids!, a free local bi-monthly parenting publication, offers a monthly calendar of events and suggested activities (many recommended by local kids) and numerous parenting resources. You can pick it up at leading book stores, museums, family restaurants, libraries, etc. Its website, www.newmexico-kids.com, offers limited information.
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