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by Dorothy Jordon & David Ferber with Jordan Simon

Mention Fort Lauderdale and most people think overgrown frat parties during spring break, a poor cousin to Miami’s Art Deco South Beach scene. However, we visit here quite often and are always delightfully surprised by its vast array of cultural and recreational activities . . . many of which outshine its famous beaches.

Two thoroughfares define Fort Lauderdale: the Intracoastal Waterway and the bustling sophisticated Las Olas Boulevard, lynchpin of the Riverwalk Arts & Entertainment District. A new, complimentary downtown trolley traverses the area evenings and Saturdays from noon, including stops at the Museum of Art, Old Fort Lauderdale Village and the Arts & Entertainment Garage.

With water water everywhere, marine mania runs from sunset cruises to some of America’s best diving and snorkeling, wrestling with stone crabs, and watching alligator wrestling at a Seminole heritage village. And there are lots of other cool activities from extensive flea markets to walking ghost tours of downtown's haunted mansions.

Greater Fort Lauderdale Summer Saver program begins 6/1, offering amazing 2-for-1 deals for dozens of attractions and activities. Summer hotel rates start as low as $49/night! But you’ll find Fort Lauderdale a sweet deal any time of the year.

The Riverwalk Arts & Entertainment District embraces Riverwalk Park and parts of Las Olas Boulevard. It offers top shops, restaurants, museums and theaters including the Broward Center for the Performing Arts. A wonderful neighborhood for strolling!

Start with the excellent Museum of Art on the Las Olas Riverfront. The superb collection includes many Latin American artworks, reflecting the area’s multi-cultural diversity. The awesome traveling King Tut exhibit lands here in December. There are intriguing weekly special events from art workshops to yoga classes, most of which are aimed at local kids. From time to time family programs are also offered. (954-525-5500/ www.moafl.org)

Boat rides on the Intracoastal Waterway are also part of the local lifestyle. Carrie B. Harbor Tours (954-768-9920) and Riverfront Cruises (954-463-3440) both leave the Las Olas Riverfront several times daily. As you glide the calm inland canals and New River, the skipper and crew will point out historic mansions and the yachts of the rich and famous.

Don't miss the exciting Museum of Discovery & Science and its hundreds of interactive exhibits on animals and earth science. Adventures include hanging out with south Florida critters like bats, alligators, turtles and sharks; playing astronaut on the Mars Rover; and goggling at the wonders looming on the five-story Blockbuster® IMAX® Theater. (954-467-6637/ www.mods.org)

Travel back in time at the Old Fort Lauderdale Village & Museum on the banks of the New River where the city began. The permanent collection and changing exhibit document the life of the region’s indigenous people and early pioneer settlers. (954-463-4431/ www.oldfortlauderdale.org)

The Fort Lauderdale Children's Theatre produces an array of family-friendly plays, like the upcoming The Phantom Tollbooth, using a mix of professional and local child actors. This summer, they're offering 2-for-1 admission. (952-763-6882)

Seeing all that water along the Riverwalk beckons folks to the beach. Funky Fish fulfills every aquatic need. Liquid Playground, a full day program for kids ages 4 and older, is the ultimate edutainment, teaching kids how to snorkel or boogie board in the pool or ocean, while cleverly sneaking in lessons on the fragile marine environment and proper conservation. Also offered are snorkel outings, scuba classes and family-together activities. (954-712-9900/ www.funkyfishkidsday.com)

Fort Lauderdale is a surprising scuba Mecca. The area has shore and deep-sea dives aplenty along the 23-mile stretch that rival anything in the Keys or Caribbean. Even in shallow waters, coral reefs, rock ledges, boulders and shipwrecks teem with turtles, octopi, manta rays, barracuda. County authorities have created artificial wrecks as well: "shipreefs" from abandoned oil platforms to decaying cargo ships to Spanish galleon cannons. We always dive with Brownies Southport Dive Shop, located near the 17th Street Causeway. (954-524-2112) Other reliable dive operators include Hollywood’s Southwest Oceanic Services (954-922-8134), Deerfield Beach’s Dixie Divers (Deerfield Beach/954-420-0009) and Fort Lauderdale’s Pro Dive (954-761-3413/800-776-3483). Rather not get your feet wet? Then take a glass bottom boat tour from Pro Dive or one of several companies near downtown, with the option of snorkeling as well.

You can unearth another kind of booty at the many flea markets throughout the Las Olas neighborhood. The Swap Shop just west of town offers things of all ages for all ages. The 88-acre complex features more than 800 merchants, circus performers, amusement rides and a 13-screen drive-in movie theater. (954-791-7927/ www.floridaswapshop.com)

Shopaholics might head west to Sawgrass Mills in Sunrise, a mesmerizing mega-mall offering more than 300 name-brand stores and designer outlets, as well as several restaurants, movie theaters and entertainment venues. On the grounds, Gameworks (954-845-8740) provides a 20,000-square-foot interactive gaming arena. Also part of the complex, the new Wannado City (954-838-7100/888-926-6236) is America's first indoor roleplaying theme park, where kids try out more than 250 careers (police chief, disco DJ, TV director, fashion photographer) in realistic venues.

One of Fort Lauderdale’s most touted attractions is out in the Everglades. The Seminole nation has several themed attractions (and casinos). A tour to Big Cypress Reservation is worth a day trip for the Ah-Tah-Thi-Ki Museum (863-902-1113) alone. Its name means "to learn," and Seminole history and culture is discovered through interpretive nature trails, rare artifacts and an authentic Seminole Village (where you watch artisans at work, enjoy folkloric storytelling or gator wrestling, even pound your own corn). The tribe also operates the Billie Swamp Safari (800-949-6101/863-983-6101). The reservation’s 2,200 acres of wetlands, hardwood hammocks and sloughs are home to deer, water buffalo, bison, wild hogs, hawks, eagles, alligators, even Florida panthers. You can skim over glittering waterscapes in an airboat, experience a swamp buggy eco-tour, paddle a canoe, walk the Swamp Trail amid majestic cypress groves and come face-to-face with the resident alligators. (www.seminoletribe.com)

Can’t get to the Everglades? Hollywood’s free Anne Kolb Nature in West Lake Park is a 1,500-acre wetland mangrove forest habitat for wading birds and other native wildlife. Educational boat tours and bicycle trails are available. Center (954-926-2480)

Or connect with nature near downtown at the Flamingo Gardens & Wray Botanical Collection. The botanical gardens and wildlife sanctuary features native plants like a 200-year old hammock, citrus groves, a Birds of Prey Center with free-flight walk-through aviary plus alligators, flamingos and bobcats. (954-473-2955/ www.flamingogardens.org)

BEST BEDS

We stayed at the deluxe Trump International Sonesta Beach Resort in Sunny Isles, just south of the Greater Fort Lauderdale area. This high-rise beachfront hotel boasts 390 spacious guestrooms with modern decor, high-speed Internet access, pillow-top mattresses, cd players, microwaves, mini-fridges and private balconies with ocean or bay views. The junior suites were designed with families in mind, featuring a sofa-bed in screened off living room and a stackable washer/dryer. There are also fully equipped 1- and 2-bedroom suites.

The resort has tremendous amenities, such as a water sports complex, health spa, fitness center, pool (huge, mostly shallow, kid-friendly) and complimentary shuttles to South Beach and Bal Harbour shops. A daily resort fee is charged to the room which saves being nickled and dimed for such items as beach lounges and local phone calls. The resort's American Classics Car Exhibit, with its display of specialty classic cars, including 50's convertibles and other rarely seen models, is a hoot.

We had a super lunch on the terrace at the resort's signature restaurant, Noemi's. All of the resort restaurants (and even room service) have children's menus. High chairs and booster seats are also available.

All of the above provides wonderful enancement of a family stay at the Trump International Sonesta Beach Hotel, but the big draw for families is surely its Just Us Kids program for ages 5-12. Run by the very imaginative Laura Kain, the program is vibrant and creative, operating daily from 8:30am-5pm, and Friday and Saturday evenings from 6-10pm. Following the successful formula at other Sonesta properties, there's an outing featured most mornings to local establishments such as the Bill Graham Farm Village, Boomers Amusement Park, Butterfly World and the like. On-site activities are just as exciting, from designing and building kites to culinary adventures with the chefs at Noemi's. The program is free save for entry fees and materials costs.

This is an up-and-coming resort area, so ask if construction is taking place when you plan to visit. Our view of the beach was marred by a huge crane! You really need a car to explore but there’s no parking near the hotel (you’ll get towed) and the hotel’s valet – the only real option – is not cheap. Still, this is a superior beachfront resort with everything you need. (305-692-5600/800-SONESTA/ www.trumpsonesta.com)

In addition to family-friendly chains like the Cheesecake Factory and Rainforest Café, Fort Lauderdale eateries offer a huge range of dining options, from Vietnamese to vegetarian, deli to diner, Italian to Indian. Try Cuban cuisine — and definitely enjoy succulent stone crabs, lobster and oysters al fresco at one of the many restaurants overlooking the Intracoastal Waterway. Here are just a few options:

Brasserie Las Olas is a comfortable popular dining spot on Las Olas. Appetizing big salads and burgers for the lighter side with a large menu for extended dining. (954-779-7374)

Buca Di Beppo is Mamma mia Southern Italian with dining a la famiglia (part of national semi-chain). Huge portions meant to be shared. (954-229-0922)

Grille 66 & Bar provides an amazing waterway view and serves fresh seasonal produce and fish. There's live jazz and piano, all part of an upscale sophisticated ambience. (954-525-6666)

Himmarshee Bar and Grille located downtown in the Riverwalk District hot spot features an eclectic menu from veal chops to gumbo (954-524-1818)

Jeremiah’s Waterfront Grille, located in Pompano Beach provides casual al fresco dining on the Intracoastal Waterway. Delicious views and seafood (954-943-773)

Johnny V, on Las Olas, is home to the well-known South Florida chef, Johnny Vinczencz, and his Floribbean cuisine. Special tapas menu available in the lounge and bar. Sleek, urban decor contrasts with Vinczencz's hearty cuisine. (954-761-7920)

Max’s Grille, with its fantastic view of the Las Olas Riverfront, serves up creative dishes like pistachio-crusted grouper, Asian spiced tuna, bourbon BBQ salmon and more. (954-779-1800/www.maxsgrille.net)

HELPING HANDS

The Greater Fort Lauderdale Convention & Visitors Bureau website, www.suuny.org, features everything from event listings to hotel deals to live webcams.

South Florida Parenting is a monthly magazine delivering up-to-date family-friendly information, including a detailed calendar of events. (www.sfparenting.com/)