NORFOLK, VIRGINIA by Dorothy Jordon with Jordan Simon
Norfolk, sandwiched between Virginia Beach and Colonial Williamsburg, is often overlooked. Yet, when I took along my 14-year-old friend, Jeremy Shevett, as research assistant, we learned that it’s quite an awesome family destination, with an array of special events, a cultural side we didn’t expect to find, plus a number of terrific restaurants. The city is home to a major naval base and has a wonderful pedestrian-friendly waterfront. Whimsically decorated mermaid statues scattered around downtown reinforce the marine theme. Norfolk’s revitalized downtown is an often stunning mix of contemporary and Victorian architecture. Dictate your own pace: discover Norfolk’s myriad cultural hotspots, cruise the harbor or relax on a nearby beach. Most attractions are clustered within walking distance or easily accessed via the free electric bus system. As luck would have it, our visit coincided with the renowned Virginia Arts Festival, adding yet another layer to this appealing city.
FABULOUS FAMILY FARE
The vast, remarkably informative Nauticus, The National Maritime Center offers more than 150 scientific and technological exhibits, many interactive – from shark petting to computer games — that convey the sea’s awesome power and mystery. Several maritime attractions are moored alongside Nauticus, including a 1933 tugboat. Its current exhibit, Inside Africa (through 5/8), promises a journey crisscrossing the continent and its enormous diversity. This will be followed by Powers Of Nature (6/2-1/2/06) that explores the interaction of different forces of nature and the effect on the Earth. (757-664-1000/800-664-1080/ www.nauticus.org) From the second floor of Nauticus, visitors access the most intriguing USS Wisconsin — the largest and last battleship commissioned by the Navy. Affable volunteers help bring the ship’s military exploits (and its massive guns) to life.(www.battleshipwisconsin.org/) The connected Hampton Roads Naval Museum displays the area’s 225 years of nautical significance. Jeremy was delighted to find he could look up his grandfather’s service record, which he did with great pride. We were both surprised at how much we enjoyed our visit here, a fair portion of which was spent at its terrific gift shop. Admission to the ship and to the Hampton Roads Naval Museum is free. (USS Wisconsin: 757-322-3108/Museum: 757-322-2987/ www.hrnm.navy.mil) Adjacent to Nauticus is the Tugboat Museum, a bargain for the $2 admission and quite enchanting. Truly a piece of history, the Tug Huntington was built in 1933 and has assisted in docking and launching hundreds of aircraft carriers and submarines. We explored the engine room, the crew's quarters, the saloon and more, while a former crew member regaled us with tall tales. (757-627-4884) We loved the nearby Town Point Park, a sensational place to soak in the historic marine ambience. We were particularly taken with the Park's Armed Forces Memorial, a 160' monument with 20 bronze cast letters written to loved ones at home by sailors who lost their lives in America's battles — from the Revolutionary to the Persian Gulf Wars. The Park hosts free concerts during warmer months. Explore local maritime heritage and the historic harbor on one of many sightseeing, entertainment or dining cruises. Arguably the coolest is American Rover, a three-masted tall ship modeled after the 19th century cargo schooners that plied the Chesapeake. The captain and crew relate the region’s history and describe the leviathan merchant vessels, nuclear subs, freighters, yachts, tugs and fishing boats crowding the harbor. Older children can even lend a hand with the rigging or try steering at the helm. (757-627-SAIL/ www.americanrover.com) Jeremy and I took a two-hour Naval Base Cruise on a Navy-themed vessel, the Victory Rover. I found it a bit boring. Perhaps it was the rain (which prevented us from going out on the upper deck) but I honestly did not find the commentary "fascinating" or "entertaining." Jeremy, however, loved it and couldn't get enough of the aircraft and guided missile cariers, and was really wowed by the nuclear submarine we saw. (757-627-7406/ www.navalbasecruises.com)
Away from the Harbor, there's lots to entertain. The expansion of the Virginia Zoological Park for its major Africa exhibit – painstakingly recreating Botswana’s Okavango Delta – was a surprising highlight of our short visit. The kid-centric activities are truly fantastic, especially the "zoodoption" Keeper for a Day Program for ages 13 and up and day-long Zoo Camps where younger kids experience various aspects of the animal world through games, crafts and one-on-one encounters. (757-441-2374/ www.virginiazoo.org) I was astounded at the Chrysler Museum of Art. It isn’t just Walter Chrysler Jr.’s world-class collection of more than 30,000 artworks spanning five centuries. I was mesmerized by the glass collection, perhaps the country's finest. The museum hosts a wealth of free programs (Children’s Storytelling Hours, Sunday Surprises, etc) where kids learn about everything from ancient China to genealogy. The bonus: 12 and under enter free! Absolutely don't miss this gem. (757-664-6200/ www.Chrysler.org) Norfolk’s enthusiastic support of the arts has contributed to its overall renaissance. Excellent regional theater, symphony, opera, ballet and modern dance companies light up the gleaming modern Chrysler Hall and Roper Performing Arts Center or historic Crispus Attucks Theater — the nation’s oldest remaining legitimate performance venue completely financed, designed and built by African-Americans (and near the touching and stirring 83-foot Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial statue). Culture vultures should swoop down during the fantastic, 2-month-long Virginia Arts Festival (4/18-5/22): April is a great time of year to visit and performances are consistenly top-notch, with an eclectic choice ensuring something for everyone. (www.virginiaartsfest.com) Even such attractions as the Norfolk Botanical Garden take advantage of the city’s scintillating seaside setting. Coastal waterways and bridges filigree its 155 acres of grounds. You can wander over 25 themed areas by foot, Critter Crawler tram or boat. Check out its family-specific tours such as the prehistoric plant safari and vegetable garden scavenger hunt. (757-441-5830/ www.norfolkbotanicalgarden.org) If you and/or your kids are military mavens, Norfolk offers plenty of other distractions: Civil War trails snake through downtown; the General Douglas McArthur Memorial in the 150-year-old Town Hall (757-441-2965/ www.macrthurmemorial.org); 45-minute bus tours of the Naval Station conducted by Navy personnel. You’ll goggle at everything from amphibious assault ships to aircraft carriers. (757-444-7955/ www.navstanorva.navy.mil) If all this isn’t enough, or if you have lots of time, you’re within easy striking distance of Virginia Beach (the country’s largest aquarium; old-time amusement parks, and more, including a comedy club, HA!, where my son Jordon Ferber often appears in the summer) and Williamsburg (Busch Gardens, Colonial Williamsburg). No wonder we found that Norfolk offers families a shipshape vacation.
The business-oriented Radisson gets mixed reviews but is worth recommending for its packages and central location. Guest rooms need refurbishing but have microwaves and mini-fridges. Facilities include complimentary wireless access throughout the hotel, health club and huge outdoor pool. (757-627-5555/800-333-3333/ www.radisson.com/norfolkva) The handsome Norfolk Marriott Waterfront is just steps from the Nauticus complex; many rooms (ask for a recently renovated unit) boast marvelous harbor views. Facilities include indoor pool, health club, Internet access and game room. cribs are complimentary and babysitting service is provided. (757-627-4200/800-228-9290/ www.marriott.com) One of the latest entries to the hotel scene in Norfolk is The Tazewell Hotel & Suites, and it's location on Granby St. can't be beat. Dating to 1906, its recent renovation is a blend of old and new. Expect a free Continental breakfast, fridges and microwaves in the rooms, a fitness room, internet hookups and two restaurants. (757-623-6200/ www.thetazewell.com)
Todd Jurich's Bistro has moved since our visit (to 150 W. Main St.) but it's still considered among the best in town. Its ever-changing menu features fresh seafood with Mediterranean and Asian influences. And, the desserts . . . to die for! Go early with kids and make reservations as this is not a "family" restaurant! (757-622-3210/ www.toddjurichsbistro.com) Another fine dining establishment is The Blue Hippo on Granby St. Wildly popular, it's funky yet elegant with bright colorful artwork gracing the walls. Not particularly family-oriented, it gets rave reviews. Reservations are highly recommended. (757-533 9664/ www.thebluehippo.com) You'll also need reservations at 456 Fish (also on Granby St.) where kids will definitely find something on its bar menu if the main menu seems too sophisticated. (757-625-4444/ http://www.456fish.com) Wonder Bar & Grill serves "the best bad food in town" at 257 Granby St. (757-962-7700) Enrico's Ristorante comes highly recommended for family dining. Expect the marriage of Italian and Greek cuisine as owners, John and Maggie Tsouris, bring experience from John's family taverno in Greece and Maggie’s family Italian restaurant in Pittsburgh to the streets of Norfolk. (757-423-2700/ www.enricosristorante.com) For what has been called "the best food for the best price," try The No Frill Grill on Spotswood Avenue. We had a terrific lunch there. (757-627-4262/ www.nofrillgrill.com) Check out the birthplace of the ice cream cone at Doumar's, an old-time 50's drive-in (with both curb and diner service) with hot dogs, hamburgers, North Carolina barbecue and, you guessed it, ice cream! (757-627-4163 / www.doumars.com Rowena’s serves a fabulous tea with scones and lots of clotted cream. Rowena Fullinwider has become a local legend for her specialty jams (many using fruit from her own backyard), sauces, curds, cakes (like cranberry-lemon torte or mint chocolate pound), etc. Rowena even authored her own children’s story-cookbooks and kids adore touring the bakery’s gigantic industrial appliances. (800-627-8699/757-627-8699/ www.rowenas.com)
The Norfolk Convention & Visitors Bureau website, www.norfolkcvb.com, has a wealth of information on activities and events. For more information about Norfolk, log on or call 800-368-3097/757-664-6620. Check out the city's Passport to Fun ($19.95 plus tax) with savings of 25% on admission to the Chrysler Museum of Art, the Zoo, Botanical Garden and Nauticus, along with additional discount coupons on dining, shopping and sightseeing. Virginia Tourism puts out a comprehensive, free family travel magazine with suggested accommodations, attractions and more at www.funforkids.virginia.cc Find out detailed information, including schedules, about Norfolk’s hottest special events at http://www.festeventsva.org Tidewater/Peninsula Parent is the local parenting resource. To find out where to pick up a copy, call 757-222-3128 or email: tparent@portfolioweekly.com Back to Top || Return to Family Travel Times Main || Go to Contents
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