CITY BREAK:

RALEIGH, NORTH CAROLINA


by Dorothy Jordon with Jordan Simon


I made an effort to visit Raleigh because I’d heard Exploris – the only interactive museum about the global community — was a fabulous family experience. It didn’t disappoint, but I must admit that I never expected to enjoy my stay as much as I did! I absolutely adored Raleigh’s cutting-edge cultural scene, superlative art museum, abundant green spaces and terrific dining options, from down-home barbecue to upscale Continental, not to mention the mild (year-round) climate. It came as no surprise that Raleigh is consistently named one of America's best places to live and work (okay, one suggestion for the city fathers: you need a bookstore downtown!). Raleigh is a capital city in both senses of the word!

Raleigh, nicknamed the Smithsonian of the South, features 20 wonderfully-varied, free attractions, from the 1840 State Capitol to the Legends of Harley Drag Racing Museum (located above an actual dealership). Even sports nuts can go wild, with several minor league teams and seven major colleges (e.g., N.C. State, Wake Forest, UNC-Chapel Hill and Duke) in the area, while duffers doff their visors at nearby Pinehurst (site of this June's U.S. Open golf tournament). Best of all, the Greater Raleigh Convention & Visitors Bureau promotes TGIF weekend getaway packages, presenting the lowest room rates at 23 properties and a Visitors Award discount sightseeing/dining/shopping card. While not totally necessary, most visitors will find a car handy.

FABULOUS FAMILY FARE

Although it’s not huge, Exploris (located downtown) offers incredible interactive edutainment in themed areas where kids and adults explore different ethnic cultures or natural environments, demonstrating how all humanity is globally linked through – and beyond – the Internet. Among the permanent exhibits, Many Voices is typical of the Exploris experience, with its section of the Berlin Wall posing the question, "Where were you when . . .?", together with commentary from two young Germans who lived behind the wall before it was torn down. Special Saturday programs (many free with admission, all part of the major spring installation, the bi-lingual Latin Jazz: La Combinación Perfecta) teach traditional West African dance or rock with live Cuban Danzón music. Don’t miss the provocative giant IMAX presentations (this spring roars with shows like NASCAR 3D and The Lions of Kalahari). (919-834-4040/ www.exploris.org)

Several attractions are further flung. The North Carolina Museum of Art is a remarkable find with an admirable layout, a wealth of fun programs and a fabulous restaurant, Blue Ridge, run by two CIA graduates. Definitely plan on dining here (and make reservations in advance). In addition to exhibiting the South’s most comprehensive European collections (which are truly mind-boggling), it hosts blockbuster traveling exhibitions (like the recent Titanic and Rodin shows) and super surveys of contemporary media from art glass to photography. The large outdoor Museum Park houses a number of installations, from Flight Wind Reeds, by Bill and Mary Buchen, to Henry Moore sculptures, not to mention a mile-long walking/biking path and an outdoor theater. I particularly adore the Museum's magical kid-centric events, like multicultural storytelling (running from Aesop to India’s Jakarta tales, incorporating mask, mime and physical comedy). And it’s all free, except some special events! (919-839-6262/ www.ncartmuseum.org)

Another absolutely amazing free venue is the African American Cultural Complex! Three buildings, situated behind the private home of its remarkable founders, Dr. and Mrs. E.B. Palmer, virtually enveloped by a lush creekside nature trail, document the impressive contributions made by African-Americans toward the development of North Carolina, America and the world. Exhibits such as Afro-American Hall of Fame and Women of Note celebrate advances in science, business, politics, medicine, sports and the arts. If you’re in Raleigh the last two weekends in July, The Amistad Saga: Reflections is a must-see, compelling outdoor dramatization of African hostages’ mutiny aboard the notorious slave ship and the subsequent trial (America’s first civil rights case). The grounds feature a Mini-Amphitheater, a Bird Sanctuary, Nature Preserve and a Picnic Area and Botanical Gardens. (919-250-9336/ www.aaccmuseum.org)

Downtown, the North Carolina Museum of Natural Sciences is yet another extraordinary free attraction, exploring every facet of the region’s environment, from the world’s only fossilized dinosaur heart to whale skeletons to painstaking recreations of five Carolina habitats, replete with live animals and waterfalls. The museum's interactive stations, Tuesday morning naturalist walks and celebrations of everything from amphibians to astronomy are all out of this world. Currently, Treasures Unearthed: North Carolina's Spectacular Gems & Minerals, is dazzling visitors through 6/11 while this summer’s exhibit, CSI: Crime Scene Insects, investigates forensic entomology (how flies, maggots and other creepy crawlers reveal critical details of a crime scene). During the nation’s largest single-day insect event, BugFest! (in September), grab some gourmet, um, grub at Café Insecta or the "critter cook-off." (919-733-7450/877-4NATSCI/ www.naturalsciences.org)

The Raleigh City Museum, in downtown’s historic Briggs Building, is another free, cool stop for its fascinating special exhibits exploring everything from Raleigh’s civil rights movement to regional natural disasters to the history of local transportation. Look for accompanying hands-on RCM Children’s Hours. (919-832-3775/ www.raleighcitymuseum.org)

I didn’t visit the Playspace Children’s Museum but appreciate its mission: helping young children (6mos-7yrs) develop through hands-on, creative and interactive play, emphasizing fun practice of life skills with caregivers’ participation. Tots can play chef in a café, scale a castle or learn computers –and those are just the Cs! (919-832-1212/ www.playspacemuseum.com)

Enjoy the verdant Historic Oak View County Park, a 19th century farmstead devoted to interpreting North Carolina’s agricultural heritage. The complex features a splendid Greek Revival 1855 farmhouse, picnic grounds, Cotton Museum, 17-acre pecan grove, herb garden and History Center with interactive exhibits. Events range from an old-fashioned tea party (explaining etiquette and history) to a recreation of a classic old-time county fair (in conjunction with the spring installation tracing the history of American fairs from 1880-1920). (919-250-1013/ www.wakegov.com/locations/oakview.htm)

Of course, the Raleigh-Durham area hosts a gazillion special events, from ye olde Renaissance Faires to May’s Artsplosure (www.artsplosure.org), the state’s largest, most diverse arts festival. The North Carolina State Fairground venues host many intriguing events showcasing everything from gemology to gourds. (www.ncstatefair.org)

Raleigh also prides itself on its performance options. Three new theaters joined venerable Memorial Auditorium to create the BTI Center for the Performing Arts, home to the Carolina Ballet (www.carolinaballet.com), North Carolina Symphony (www.ncsymphony.org), North Carolina Theatre (www.nctheatre.com), Opera Company of North Carolina (www.operanc.com) and top touring shows at Broadway Series South (www.broadwayseriessouth.com). A free trolley departs the City parking garages and the City Market area for BTI for Thursday, Friday and Saturday evening performances. (www.raleigh-nc.org/transit/trolley.htm)


BEST BEDS

The Sheraton Raleigh offers location, location, location! Surprisingly, it’s the only major hotel downtown (aside from smaller chain properties). It’s within walking distance of City Market, Artspace, BTI Center for the Performing Arts, the State Capitol and many museums and restaurants. For me, being able to explore a city by foot by just stepping out from my hotel is a quintessential city vacation experience. The Sheraton provided this opportunity and, since it’s attached to the Raleigh Convention and Conference Center, it offers top-notch facilities: business center, indoor pool, fitness center, in-room on-command movies/video games and high-speed Internet access. The 355 units are handsomely appointed with polished hardwood furnishings and mostly earth tones. Cribs, rollaway beds and refrigerators are available. (919-834-9900/800-325-3535/ www.sheraton.com/raleigh)


FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD

Raleigh is home to one of the first Krispy Kreme donut shops, where it seemed to me half the city stopped in on its way to work.

Barbecue aficionados worship North Carolina as one of the meccas, debating its merits versus the Memphis school. Big Ed's in City Market is a wonderful lunch spot with great food, fast service and reasonable prices: the perfect place to sample the black and white styles (a local term that just sounds politically incorrect) of mouth- and sometimes eye-watering ribs. Portions are huge; kids can easily share! (919-836-9909)

Cooper’s Barbeque, is another BBQ option, serving lunch only. This local landmark since the ‘20’s is located downtown, not far from City Market. Popular with locals, the portions are large and the cost is low. (919-832-7614)

Carnivores will enjoy Angus Barn for dinner; as the name implies it’s a grade-A prime steakhouse. Despite its vast size, expect to wait even if you have a reservation. You will need a car to get here. (919-787-3505/ www.angusbarn.com)

Fish lovers should cruise by 42nd St. Oyster Bar & Seafood Grill. In the same location since 1931, it’s moderately-priced and conveniently located; call for their live entertainment schedule. (919-831-2811/ www.42ndstoysterbar.com)

I adored the NC Museum of Art’s Blue Ridge Restaurant for its delicious home-style lunches (brunch is also worthy) and gorgeous setting overlooking the sculpture garden: a masterpiece! (919-833-3458/ www.ncartmuseum.org/restaurant.shtml)

Second Empire Restaurant & Tavern, with its innovative, eclectic menu showcasing fresh seasonal regional ingredients, courtesy of Executive Chef Daniel Schnurr, a CIA grad, was a wonderuful surprise. Located in an elegantly restored home, the 1879 Dodd-Hinsdale House, its food is just outstanding. Families with younger children might be more comfortable on the year-round covered patio or in the adjacent tavern, an exposed brick cellar, where Daniel prepares lighter, more casual fare. There's a pre-performance prix fixe menu and free shuttle to nearby BTI Center for the Performing Arts. (919-829-3663/ www.second-empire.com)

Spice up your visit at Chef Rameaux's School of Cooking & Louisiana Market, where owner Raymond Rodgers spreads the word about the "holy trinity" of Louisiana cooking, sells such staples as crawfish, red beans and andouille sausage and teaches cooking classes. (919-834-2510/ www.cheframeaux.com/)


HELPING HANDS

The Greater Raleigh Convention and Visitors Bureau website, www.visitraleigh.com, offers thorough listings from the events calendar to a hot deals section (including a tremendous link for savings: www.raleighnow.com).

For parenting resource assistance, from childcare to a calendar of events, check out www.carolinaparent.com.

BabyZone.com features a section on Raleigh, Durham and Chapel Hill that could be useful. (www.trianglenc.babyzone.com/parentresources)

 

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© 2005 Dorothy Jordon & Associates Inc.