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AT A HIGH SCHOOL FOOTBALL GAME — TEXAN STYLE!

San Antonio is a colorful mosaic of history and culture, which embraces Native American, Southern, German and African-American influences. Its lifeblood is the 2.5-mile Paseo del Rio or River Walk, a dazzling pedestrian corridor whose cobble- and flagstone paths and mini-green spaces border both banks of the San Antonio River as it swirls through downtown. We strolled up and down early in the morning as shopkeepers and restaurateurs readied themselves for the day ahead, and late in the afternoon as folks shopped, dined and congregated in the many chic boutiques and sidewalk cafes. There's always something happening along the River Walk, whether its taking a scenic cruise (or watching others do so), enjoying a San Antonian tradition of watching the annual Halloween Coffins on Parade — when adorned boats with coffins ply the river – or lingering at a concert being performed along the route. Special events along River Walk are de rigeur. (www.thesanantonioriverwalk.com)

The San Antonio Children's Museum, successfully operating for many years, has a motto that says it all:

where kids play to learn and adults learn to play!

Among the exhibits are ZoomZone – simulating the PBS hands-on science series Zoom – H2O Clubhouse, focusing on water conservation, plus the opportunity to play adult roles from dentist to construction worker, or to explore a miniature version of the city. For younger kids check out the Make and Take crafts workshops and the Tot Spot. (210-212-4453/ www.sakids.org)

The Alamo, originally the Mission San Antonio de Valero, is a short stroll off River Walk. It’s both museum and shrine to the legendary 189 defenders, including Davy Crockett and James Bowie, who held off General Santa Anna’s vast Mexican forces in 1836. Ironically, we found the other famous Spanish Colonial missions boring (though Sunday church services are colorful and engaging) and can’t imagine many kids being interested. (210-225-1391/ www.thealamo.org)

We never miss the opportunity to visit Market Square aka El Mercado to buy colorful souvenirs (fabulous Mexican folk art) or culinary goodies from across the border (yummy Mexican vanilla!). The lively restaurants serve up terrific baked goods and classic tamales while strollers and diners alike enjoy the wandering mariachi bands. Milam Park, across the street, includes a great playground for burning off excess calories and energy. (www.hotx.com/sa/elmercado)

Also downtown, La Villita Historic Arts Village offers another shopping and dining experience, with the retail outlets occupying a range of 19^th buildings in various architectural styles. (www.lavillita.com)

We were impressed by San Antonio’s strong, varied arts scene. We bought a piece of sculpture at the Blue Star Contemporary Art Space, home to several working ateliers (www.bluestarartspace.org). We also loved the work at ArtPace (210-212-4900/888-212-9247/ www.artpace.org) and the Southwest School of Art & Craft, which occupies a lovely complex built by French Ursuline nuns in 1848 to host the city’s first girls’ school. (210-271-3374/ www.swschool.org)

In the tower’s shadow, the University of Texas Institute of Texan Cultures is a winner for all ages. We've been here several times, yet it never fails to amaze us with new facets – there are lots of programs and hands-on experiences celebrating the 26 ethnic and cultural groups that built Texas. If you’re in town 6/9-12, don’t miss its Texas Folklife Festival. (210-458-2300/ www.texancultures.utsa.edu/public)

You’ll also have to take the trolley to SAMA — San Antonio Museum of Art, but this wonderful place, housed in the fortress-like former headquarters of Lone Star Brewery, is worth any detour; an exciting Asian wing opens this spring, and kids especially love its renowned Mexican folk art collection. (210-978-8100/ www.samuseum.org)

Above all, don’t miss Brackenridge Park, a 433-acre urban oasis that includes a Kiddie Park and miniature train ride! The San Antonio Zoo, with a collection of more than 3,500 animals, rates as one of the country’s finest, including an astonishing bird collection and a marvelous mini-zoo designed specifically for toddlers: Kronkosky's Tiny Tot Nature Spot. (210-734-7184/www.sazoo-aq.org)

We stayed at the Westin Riverwalk San Antonio, located near one end of the River Walk. We luxuriated in a fabulous, enormous room, whose huge terrace overlooked the river and a quiet garden. Ultra-modern amenities include hi-speed Internet, oversized marble bathroom and Westin’s trademark Heavenly Bed. Aside from using the fitness center (it was too chilly for the adjacent outdoor pool), however, we hardly spent any time enjoying the facilities. We probably would have appreciated the hotel’s Latino-themed La Merienda High Tea, but alas, ‘twas not to be this trip!

You’ll find comprehensive listings, an events calendar, even discount offers on the San Antonio Convention & Visitors Bureau websites, www.sanantoniocvb.com and www.sanantoniovisit.com.

© 2005 Dorothy Jordon & Associates Inc.