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CITY BREAK:

SEATTLE, WASHINGTON

by Dorothy Jordon and David Ferber with Jordan Simon

It was our first visit to Seattle, a stopover en route home from Hawaii, and wow, were we impressed with the city’s vibrancy, fun attractions, fine dining and beautiful setting! Prepared for rain, we were also surprised. While it rained slightly and softly each day of our early November visit, we had as much sunshine as precipitation. Seattle is cosmopolitan and cutting-edge, yet retains small town warmth and a quirkily independent spirit. This shows in its innovative interactive museums and relaxed dress codes (both for businesses and restaurants). And where else is there a taxi driver impersonating Elvis? Originally the City Council fined the King of Cabs’ owner, but now permits all drivers to wear costumes depicting well-known public figures or fictional characters (as long as the driver’s face matches the license photo!). It’s easy to understand why Microsoft, Nordstrom’s, Boeing, Starbucks and other groundbreaking companies started here.

Downtown Seattle is fairly compact and walkable but a bit hilly, so factor that into your wanderings. Only a few sights require a car rather than easy public transportation. A bonus is Seattle's value-packed CityPass that includes the excellent Woodland Park Zoo, the Space Needle, the Pacific Science Center (including IMAX), the Seattle Aquarium, (a one-hour) Argosy Cruise and The Museum of Flight.

Seattle is no slouch when it come to celebrations as evidenced by the Northwest Folklife Festival, a Seattle tradition that has taken place over Memorial Day weekend since 1972, when a vast array of artists create diverse exhibits, from dance and music to arts and crafts. (www.nwfolklife.org) Spring is also host to the Seattle International Film Festival, surprisingly the most highly-attended film festival in the United States. (www.seattlefilm.com) Another spring event, the Seattle International Children's Festival, takes place 5/9-14 and features performances from around the world, in addition to Discovery Centers with hands-on activities (206-684-7338/ www.seattleinternational.org)

Seattle has plenty to please culture vultures while simultaneously being a shining light of urban recreation, with golf, kayaking and canoeing, fishing, clamming and hiking easily accessible, plus hundreds of acres of city parks and playgrounds.

FABULOUS FAMILY FARE

Like most tourists, our first visit was to Pike Place Market — a perennial favorite. This nine-acre National Historic District (founded in 1907) is home to more than 100 farmers, 200 artists and craftspeople, 250 small businesses, 500 residents and 50 street performers. The first Starbucks opened here in 1971. The market percolates with activity, but we're a bit too jaded to call it extraordinary although it will certainly enchant all ages. And we were not that jaded that we didn't open our wallets! We especially liked the art galleries at the far end of the market and wandered from here past some hot restaurants — judging by the lines outside! (www.pikeplacemarket.org/)

We spent First Thursday (of each month, when many museums are free and galleries serve wine and cheese into the evening to attract visitors) checking out another National Historic District — the re-gentrified Pioneer Square. Seattle’s original "Skid Row" was rumored to be grotty, but we found it funky and interesting. Handsome Victorian buildings grace tree-lined streets filled with an array of galleries and boutiques that appealed to young and old alike. Teens will want to check out Seattle's Underground Tour, roaming the subterranean world of old downtown Seattle and featuring a history lesson with humor and wit. There's lots of walking and a fair amount of steps to navigate so it might not be appropriate for younger kids. (www.undergroundtour.com)

The very modern Seattle Art Museum is a wonderful example of the city’s unconventional architecture -- and exciting. We were quite taken by the marvelous Frieda Kahlo exhibit on display during our visit. This spring brings Transformed by Fire: Sculpture in Glass from the Collection of Becky and Jack Benaroya (remember, the great Dale Chihuly is a Washingtonian!) and the thought-provoking traveling installation, Between Past and Future: New Photography and Video from China. (206/654-3100/ www.seattleartmuseum.org)

Of course, Seattle is one of those cities best experienced afloat. Seattle Aquarium’s exhibits and unique underwater viewing dome bring you up close and personal with the Puget Sound’s amazingly diverse marine life, from otters to octopi and seals to salmon. (206-386-4300/ www.seattleaquarium.org)

Argosy Cruises provides a shipshape one-hour excursion as well as longer tours, including dinner and half-day trips to Tillicum Village, a remarkable Native American heritage center at Blake Island State Park (salmon feast and traditional dancing included). Or you can just hop a commuter ferry on Puget Sound and soak up the views. (206-623-1445/800-642-7816/ www.argosycruises.com)

Seattle Center, the 1962 World’s Fair site, is another ground zero for activity, from museums to performing arts and sporting venues. Its symbol is Seattle’s trademark Space Needle. The quaintly futuristic 607-foot tower rotates; we didn’t go to the top, but kids usually enjoy it. (206-905-2100/ www.spaceneedle.com)

We missed The Children’s Museum Seattle, where kids can role play and learn teamwork while interactively exploring mountain forests, sailing to foreign shores in the Global Village and exploring various art media and technology at the Imagination Station. (206-441-1768/www.thechildrensmuseum.org)

The nearby Pacific Science Center also sounds astounding, with virtual reality soccer games, industrial robots, laser light shows, interactive science exhibits like the Puget Sound saltwater tide pool or K5 First Alert Weather Center, hands-on music, Boeing IMAX Theater, Tropical Butterfly House and Insect Village. (206-443-2001/ www.pacsci.org)

The Seattle Center features two interesting sounding museums! Experience Music Project is, well, Nirvana for fans, celebrating the roots of rock ‘n’ roll with interactive exhibits (strum rare guitars), unique artifacts (handwritten song lyrics to wild stage costumes), videos, workshops and live performances, all in a groovily psychedelic Frank Gehry design. A must for teens! (206-EMPLIVE/ www.emplive.com)

The adjacent not quite year-old Science Fiction Museum and Hall of Fame also sounds like an out-of-this-world place for teens and younger readers. Learn the history of the future through interactive encounters with cities of tomorrow, aliens, robots, spaceships and more from the fertile minds of visionaries like Spielberg, Wells and Bradbury. The current major exhibit explores how perceptions of Mars have changed. (206-770-2700/800-SCI-FICT/ www.sfhomeworld.org)

That’s just scratching the surface. Seattle boasts major league franchises in several sports and major-league cultural offerings like the internationally acclaimed Seattle Symphony (www.seattlesymphony.com) and Seattle Rep ( www.seattlerep.org). Nearby sister city Tacoma features its own terrific attractions, most notably the incredible Museum of Glass in the International Center for Contemporary Art. A short drive leads to scenic skiing, snowboarding, river rafting, windsurfing and hiking in Mt. Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Olympic National Park & Rainforest and Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area.

A weekend is truly insufficient for a city where you can dive-bomb into aviation history at the Museum of Flight (www.museumofflight.org) or tour Boeing’s amazing aircraft facility. Whatever the length of your visit, your family’s spirits should soar in Seattle.

BEST BEDS

When we stayed at the 450-room Fairmont Olympic Hotel, it was a Four Seasons Hotel, but very little has changed. The location is ideal, within walking distance of the Seattle Art Museum, Pike Place Market, Waterfront and the shopping/business area. The Fairmont Olympic is the Pacific Northwest’s only AAA Five Diamond hotel and had a fantastic concierge staff who steered us to just the places we would have selected on our own, had we been knowledgable. A true grande dame, the 1924 building is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The neo-Italianate Renaissance architecture is gorgeous, but the hotel is thoroughly up-to-date; facilities include full-service fitness center, spa, indoor pool and high-speed Internet access in the elegantly appointed rooms. Service is superb and the restaurants are sensational. We particularly enjoyed the Georgian’s casual ambience (the hotel's signature restaurant), in keeping with Seattle’s low-key vibe; even David’s spilling a glass of red wine all over me couldn’t detract from the experience! Our Executive Suite was a gem, elegant and comfortable with a large bathroom and wonderful amenities. Below the hotel are shops and a full-service spa. When we tried to book two massages at the hotel's spa, they could only accommodate one of us. Fortunately, the Jeremy Todd Wellness Spa & Salon in the hotel's arcade was able to pamper the other. Although not the cheapest property in Seattle, it's one hotel we would return to in a heartbeat! (206-621-1700/ www.fairmont.com/seattle)

FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD

Seattle offers far more than brewed espresso and micro-brewed beer. Washington boasts rich agriculture (most top restaurants utilize fresh seasonal produce, as well as shellfish and salmon), including some truly great wines. The Pacific Rim influence is particularly pronounced, but chefs are also inspired by the city’s rich multi-cultural heritage.

A perfect example is Wild Ginger Asian Restaurant & Satay Bar, which we adored! It’s a tad pricey, but families flock here. Fantastic décor (intriguing history at this spot) and fabulous food give it satay-ing power! We literally bumped into chef/owner Rick Yoder on our way out and he assured us that the kitchen readily makes dishes less spicy for young palates. (206-623-4450)

In one of the twisting alleys off Pioneer Square, Il Terrazzo Carmine is a bit hard to find but worth the effort. Lovely staff, wonderful Italian fare and a pleasant courtyard made our dinner here a delight. They've been charming folks since 1984 with no end in sight. (206/467-7797/ www.ilterrazzocarmine.com/)

HELPING HANDS

Seattle’s Convention & Visitors Bureau has a fine website, www.seeseattle.org, with plentiful information on events, lodging deals, sightseeing itineraries, online printable discount coupons and more. You can also arrange one-stop "shopping" for all your entertainment needs at the CVB’s downtown Citywide Concierge Center on the Washington State Convention and Trade Center’s Galleria Level.

You can net some great hotel deals at www.seattlesupersaver.com, which also holds occasional cross-promotions with CityPass.

Seattle's Child is the oldest parenting newspaper in the US and has been providing information for parents for 25 years. Founder Ann Bergman is also the author of Going Places: Family Getaways in the Pacific Northwest, which we hope will be updated soon. (www.seattle-city.parenthood.com)

FTT contributor Silvana Clark has covered Seattle for us for many years. You might want to check out her articles, Splendid Seattle and Sunday in Seattle.

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