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by Dorothy Jordon with Jordan Simon

The first time I visited Las Vegas I was 14-years-old. I loved it then and I love it now. My recent visit in October was a girls' away weekend, meeting up with friends from L.A.and England. Over those more than 40 years, Las Vegas has exploded in size yet still retains the appeal I discovered as a teenager.

Vegas is not for everyone. Some find the glitz and kitsch over the top. Yet, somehow Vegas continues to bring out the kid in everyone. This supremely sublime, surreal fantasia is more popular than ever, continually adding mega-hotels and themed attractions. It's obviously not the gaming that lures families (childcare is practically non-existent for tourists). Vegas has shed the family-friendly image it marketed in the 1990s, but it’s still one giant amusement park. What other skyline features an Egyptian pyramid, Arthurian castle, the Statue of Liberty, St. Mark’s Square, the Eiffel Tower . . . and more? Fortunately, the monorail linking nine resorts, from MGM Grand to the Sahara, makes getting around easier, and seems to be running smoothly after initial glitches.

The city's setting between mountains and desert makes it a recreational oasis. In a city of trompe l'oeil horizons, just outside the city one finds skiing (at Mt. Charleston’s Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Area), golf, rock-climbing (at the glorious Red Rock Canyon), horseback riding, hiking as well as a wide array of watersports, even scuba diving! If time permits, consider taking a Mississippi paddlewheel cruise along Lake Mead, a hardhat tour of majestic Hoover Dam or a flightseeing trip to the Grand Canyon.

All the world’s a stage and Vegas has much more than the girlie shows they did on my first visit. Show prices, however, can be extravagant. For day-of-performance discounts, try Tickets 2Nite, (888-484-9264) located in the Showcase Mall, near the MGM Grand. There's no lack of great kid-friendly shows, from the peerless magician, Lance Burton, to the wild antics of Blue Man Group. Check for smaller-scale, big-entertainment value afternoon shows (coupons are copious), such as Harrah’s comic magic dished out by Mac King.

On my recent visit I saw Mamma Mia! — a delightful show at the Mandalay Bay Theater, with terrific acoustics and sightlines. Some parents might object to the story (mother got pregnant as a teenager and doesn’t know who the father is; daughter now getting married, invades her mom’s diary from "that" summer and invites three possible dads to the wedding). But the ending is upbeat and the ABBA tunes are simply irresistible.

I also had the good fortune to get tickets to Cirque du Soleil's O at the Bellagio, a remarkable extravaganza showcasing the troupe’s gravity-defying acrobatics and mesmerizing visuals. The title puns on the French word for water: eau. The remarkable set moves from pool to lake to ocean replete with waves, beaches and iceberg-shaped ships, as clowns, dancers, gymnasts, swimmers, contortionists and aerialists fly and float in the air, in the water and on solid ground. I thought it was fabulous, though not as over-the-top as anticipated. Other Cirque du Soleil performances in Vegas include Mystère at Treasure Island, Zumanity at New York-New York and Ka at the MGM Grand.

The Mirage hosts another hot ticket: Wholesome, likable impersonator Danny Gans effortlessly slips over 100 voices (from a changing repertoire of 300+) into his act, including Homer Simpson, Bill Clinton, Sammy Davis, Jr., Jimmy Stewart, Kermit the Frog and Ella Fitzgerald. His singing renditions are particularly bravura

Every hotel on The Strip provides family fun. Note that thrill and IMAX/motion-simulator rides are based not on age, but on height (from 42 to 54"). Check hotel websites for times, prices and restrictions.

Mandalay Bay’s main family attraction is Shark Reef. It’s ingeniously conceived as a sunken ancient tropical city, with faux temple ruins forming a habitat for Burmese pythons, extinct golden crocodiles, touch tanks and aquariums housing over 1,200 species from morays to moon jellies. Interactive and video displays combine with helpful naturalists (in pith helmets and Hawaiian shirts), a good self-guided audio tour (included in price) and a sophisticated communications system permitting divers to answer questions while underwater. The highlight is the 1.3-gallon acrylic tunnel where several species of sharks glide menacingly by like predators. It should take no more than two hours to fully experience this educational, enjoyable attraction. (www.mandalaybay.com)

At The Sahara, Speed: The Ride hurtles through sharp curves, loops and underground tunnels, accelerating to 70mph — before repeating it backwards! Its other ride, Las Vegas Cyber Speedway, is the ultimate teen testosterone test-drive, virtual-racing around a replica of the town’s real speedway in vehicles 7/8 the size of actual stock cars mounted on six-axis hydraulic bases at up to 220mph. (www.saharahotel.com)

At Treasure Island Hotel, a free 12-minute outdoor spectacular, Sirens of TI, offers swashbuckling stunts and flashy pyrotechnics, even if the seductive bump-and-grind routines and occasionally suggestive dialogue are PG-13. Get there at least half an hour in advance to beat crowds. (www.treasureisland.com)

At the Mirage, Volcano earns "magma" cum laude from kids, shooting steam, simulated lava and flames 100' into the air. Siegfried & Roy may no longer be performing but the hotel's Secret Garden/Dolphin Habitat entrances are quite entertaining. Secret Garden spotlights tigers, leopards and elephants in a spectacularly Asian-themed natural environment. The fascinating 2.5 million gallon Dolphin Habitat isn’t about tricks (though the Flippers bat balls with staff and patrons) but education, with seven enchanting Atlantic bottlenose dolphins. (www.mirage.com)

Head for Italy at the fabulous Venetian resort (arty folks of all ages will appreciate its expensive but exquisite Guggenheim-Hermitage Museum). Lining both sides of the Grand Canal Shoppes are marble balconies and cobblestone streets with street performers (magicians, jugglers, living statues) and artisans like glass-blowers parading in sumptuous costumes. Take a gondola ride along the half-mile Grand Canal and then visit Madame Tussaud’s Interactive Experience. Kids can drive to the net against Shaq, duet with Britney or audition for Simon Cowell while Dad plays poker with Ben Affleck and Mom marries George Clooney. Don't miss the fascinating behind-the-scenes peeks at their creation. (www.venetian.com)

The Forum Shops at Caesars Palace, with its trompe l’oeil design crosses the streets of ancient Rome, including marble fountains and statuary, are underneath a "sky" ceiling that moves from sunrise to sunset hourly. It’s worth battling the clamorous, Coliseum-like crowds at the free hourly animatronic show, Fall of Atlantis, with its crackling lightning, billowing smoke, shooting lasers and hilarious dialogue. Kids adore the free "backstage" tours and feedings in its 50,000-gallon saltwater backdrop, which hosts over 100 species from stingrays to sharks. (www.caesarspalace.com)

Now allowing strollers, the Bellagio's Conservatory (open 24/7) comes alive with ponds, fountains, bridges, pagoda, wrought-iron gazebos and arbors underneath a copper-framed glass ceiling. One hundred horticulturists change the amazing array of color-coordinated trees, plants and blooms at least bi-monthly to reflect seasons and holidays. The free, synchronized water ballet, Fountains of Bellagio, makes a real splash, with over 1,000 spouting multi-colored flumes kick-stepping like Rockettes to the inimitable accompaniment of Sinatra, Pavarotti, Gene Kelly and the like. (www.bellagio.com)

At Showcase Mall (fronted by a 100-foot Coke bottle from a defunct attraction), M&M World — a free, four-story, multi-media attraction — is hallucinogenic, starting with the exterior’s 40' gyrating yellow bag dispensing M&Ms. The interactive M&M Academy "graduates" kids after a nutty tour, followed by a 3-D movie chronicling the Vegas misadventures of "Red" and "Yellow," sweetening the pot with a fantastic M&M NASCAR racing team area. (702-736-7611)

The mall also showcases GameWorks, a Universal Studios-Sega Enterprises collaboration that features abundant video and virtual reality games, a 75-foot climbing rock and internet access. (702-432-4263)

At New York-New York, the Manhattan Express roller coaster’s yellow cabs crash through the skyline, threatening to decapitate the Empire State and Chrysler Buildings, climbing to 203', with barrel-roll twist-and-dive drops, kamikaze dives at nearly 70 mph, spirals, camel back hills, and high-banked turns – before plunging through the casino roof. There’s a Coney Island Emporium arcade with lots of fun games for younger kids, as well as a Nathan’s Hot Dog stand. (www.nynyhotelcasino.com)

My friend Penny and I stopped by the MGM Grand, the world's largest hotel, just in time for its free Lion Habitat show, a bit drawn out but engaging. We were sorry that we didn't have time for MGM’s latest free attraction, CBS Television City, an interactive research center for television pilots where guests provide feedback at screenings of what could be next year’s breakout hit or flop on CBS, MTV and Nickelodeon. (www.mgmgrand.com)

The 1,149' Stratosphere Hotel Tower and Thrill Rides is the tallest structure east of the Mississippi and delivers the promised thrills, from 360-degree panoramas at the observation deck and rotating Top of the World restaurant to the world’s highest four rides, all 900'+ above the ground. High Roller may disappoint enthusiasts (taking tight curves at "only" 35mph). In 12 seconds, Big Shot rockets you 160' straight up the tower's facade to nearly 1,100' above the Strip with 4 G's of thrust. After a brief calm, you nosedive just as abruptly. X Scream and the new Insanity, an inverted centrifuge that dangles and spins you 64 feet beyond the tower, provide even dizzier drops. (www.stratospherehotel.com)

OFF-STRIP:

The free Fremont Street Experience five-block pedestrian mall, semi-enclosed by a 90' vaulted steel-mesh canopy sprinkled with 2 million light bulbs, features several mind-boggling, technically awesome sound-and-light extravaganzas. (702-678-5777)

Also downtown, the 200,000-square-foot entertainment complex, Neonopolis, houses the Crown 14 Cineplex and the massive two-story Jillian’s, an extensive video arcade, sports-nut Video Café, bowling lanes, pool tables, et. al. (702/477-0470)

A must here is the gallery tower Neon Museum, home to rescued classics, such as the horse and cowboy from the Hacienda (1967), the 1961 flickering conflagration from the Flame Restaurant and the lamp from the original Aladdin (1966) from industry designer YESCO’s "neon boneyard" (702-387-NEON)

The Lied Children's Museum, located in the Las Vegas Library, was designed to appeal to a child’s eye with a panoply of geometric patterns. Kids can earn and spend a paycheck in the Every Day Living area, tackle the What If You Couldn't . . . section, including a basketball half-court where they shoot in wheelchairs, and play meteorologist at a genuine weather station. (702-382-3445)

Next door, the Reed Whipple Cultural Center hosts several performing delights, none more so than the Rainbow Company Youth Theater with its occasionally warped, non-condescending variations on classic fairy tales with a tinge of Roald Dahl. April’s offering is (W)Rites of Passage, an original tapestry of words and movement. (702-229-6211)

The Las Vegas Museum of Natural History is impressively realistic, if occasionally gory, with dioramas of international and indigenous desert beasts. There are also robotic dinos, fossils, live animals and some fantastic special exhibits. The Young Scientist Center emphasizes learning through doing. (702-384-3466)

The Nevada State Museum features a range of educational, fun exhibits covering the timeline from Cretaceous to present. Of course, the colorful history of casino gambling (neon signs, Bugsy Seigel and all) is included. (702-486-5205)

There are dozens more attractions, most notably Ron Lee’s World of Clowns (in nearby Henderson) or the Liberace Museum, so do check out the recommended websites at the end for more information.

First, let's note that, despite all the above attractions, few of the hotels in Vegas cater to families. But that may not be as important as it would be in other destinations. My friends and I stayed at Mandalay Bay, considered posh (especially the swank new hotel-within-a-hotel, THEhotel at Mandalay Bay), with a vaguely tropical theme throughout. It's located at the far, quiet end of The Strip, and guests don't have to walk through the Casino to check in and go to the rooms. We had a fabulous two-bedroom suite with outstanding views of The Strip — just spectacular at night. Kids will especially love the pool area, complete with sand and a wave pool. (702-632-7777/877-632-7000/ www.mandalaybay.com)

Four Seasons Las Vegas occupies four floors of Mandalay Bay, with its own entrance and separate beach area, but no casino. (877-632-5000/702-632-5000/ www.fourseasons.com/lasvegas)

Excalibur, a wonderful, wacky medieval delight, entertains families at its Fantasy Faire Midway and Tournament of Kings dinner show. (702-597-7777/800-937-7777/ www.excalibur.com)

Circus Circus juggles families and gambling with marvelous free acts under the Big Top and the world’s largest indoor theme park, Adventuredome. (702-794-3939/ 800-634-3450/ www.circuscircus.com)

Ever since Wolfgang Puck opened Spago in Las Vegas in 1992, casinos have competed like George Steinbrenner for the biggest culinary superstars. Consequently, Vegas is now home to a mind-boggling numberoutpost restaurants of celebrity chefs.

Caesars Palace recently opened Bobby Flay's Mesa Grill, where we had a terrific meal. Not nearly as hot and spicy as its New York counterpart, the restaurant still sizzles. Kids are always welcome (and the kitchen will accommodate finicky palates) and they will get a kick watching the chefs prep at the open kitchen. (702-731-7110)

Another crowd-pleaser is America in New York-New York. Dining here is like sampling a series of culinary postcards from around the country, with state-specific specialties such as Philly cheesesteaks, Maryland crabcakes, Buffalo wings and more. The setting includes the nation’s largest topographic map. (702-740-6969)

The best values in town remain the all-you-can-eat buffets; several are free to children under 4 and/or offer discounts for kids 4-12. Top choices include Excalibur, Harrah’s and Rio Carnival.

Other good bets are the huge theme (in Vegas that means even larger-than-life than anywhere else) chains: Hard Rock Café, Planet Hollywood, ESPN Zone, NASCAR Café, Harley Davidson Café and MGM Grand’s Rainforest Café. (702-891-8580)

You don’t have to be a Trekker to trek to Quark’s Bar & Restaurant, which resembles a Cardassian mess hall replete with futuristic furnishings and laser lighting. It's part of Star Trek: The Experience (the motion simulator rides are fun, but bumpy and pricey, though the themed museum with Trek artifacts and trivia is cool). (702-732-5111)

The official website of the Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority, www.visitlasvegas.com, has a printable map locating hotels on the Strip.

An excellent, comprehensive site is www.vegas.com, which lists hotels, shows, attractions, restaurants, etc., alphabetically and by category.

Another good, privately operated site is www.lasvegasadvisor.com, where you can link to Travelaxe – a hotel rate search engine that combs 18 travel and hotel sites for the best rates.

Our favorite site, www.lasvegaskids.net, treats you like a VIP (Very Important Parent). In addition to terrific listings and reviews of the sights and sounds of the city, the hotel write-ups are especially helpful for deciding where to stay (they’re rated according to kid-friendliness). The website consults kids who actually live in Vegas as an "expert" panel for advice on the best swimming pools, arcades, museums, shows, etc. You can register for the free monthly newsletter with updated information.

Check out the fabulous array of non-hotel performances and exhibits at the City of Las Vegas Cultural Affairs Division’s website: www.artslasvegas.org

For still more tips and suggestions, check out a past FTT article on Las Vegas (check websites for updated information) by contributor Lisa Hettler-Smith.

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