 NAPA NIBBLESby Dorothy Jordon, David Ferber & Jordan Simon
FAST FACTS: Napa Valley Visitor's Bureau: www.napavalley.org Napa River Inn: 877-251-8500/251-8500/www.napariverinn.com
This past July 4th weekend, the son of good friends was getting married in Sonoma County, giving us the perfect excuse to scout Wine Country opportunities for families. Visiting the Napa and Sonoma Valleys has traditionally been treated as an "adult" vacation — with parents discouraged from bringing children. For years we've been told that it is "inappropriate" to tote our tots and teens here. Fortunately, there have always been properties which welcome families, but I must admit that we were surprised — and pleased — to find so many family-friendly activities. In fact, during our three short days in Napa, we barely scratched the surface of things we wanted to do and see. The town of Napa is not fancy or pretentious, and is compact enough for walking — although you will want a car to explore other parts of the Valley. Downtown is undergoing an ambitious renaissance, restoring its 19th century brick buildings and restructuring the riverfront. While there are some upscale shops, most cater to locals, rather than tourists. The restaurants also offer a nice mix of casual neighborhood eateries and trendier, more expensive venues. And, of course, there's the wine. After spending too much time in bumper-to-bumper traffic driving up and down the Valley just once, we planned the rest of our stops to coordinate with our next destination, Santa Rosa in Sonoma County, making some fun stops en route. HOME AWAY FROM HOME Our room was fresh as a daisy, with sunny yellow wallpaper and upholstery contrasting with handsome cherry wood wainscoting and coffered paneling. Round porthole mirrors in carved-rope frames lend a yacht cabin theme. A fireplace and a bathroom with granite and stone accents complete the casually deluxe feel. History mavens will appreciate the period antiques and exacting reproductions in the Hatt Building units. Canopy bed, fireplaces, tufted lounge chairs, velvet ottomans, exposed brick walls, maple floors, crimson and gold tones, claw-foot slipper tubs and brass fixtures recreate Victorian opulence without stuffiness. The Plaza Building lodgings feature sleek, contemporary decor with white marble bathrooms, solid oak furnishings and turn-of-the-century local landscape art. All rooms include breakfast, evening wine tasting, coffeemakers, fridges and such modern amenities as high-speed and/or wireless internet access. A number of the rooms can accommodate families. The Greenhaus European Day Spa was completely booked while we were there. Pity, because it looks like a great place to Zen and zone out. Treatments range from the expected (manicures, pedicures, facials, massages) to more "indigenous" options, such as a Chardonnay Grapeseed scrub and wrap designed to combat sun exposure. TOP PICKS The true highlight of Napa is the magnificent gastronomic playground, COPIA, which can only be described as a foodie's Disneyland. The two hours we allotted to visit here definitely weren't sufficient. One could easily spend the entire day. Pick up a program on your way in: SO much goes on that formulating a plan is advisable, though it's the kind of place that also rewards wandering at leisure. COPIA, subtitled The American Center for Wine, Food & the Arts, fulfills the name's promise and is surprisingly child-friendly. Food-related artworks are scattered throughout the 80,000-square foot facility and grounds (including vast floral and vegetable gardens and greenhouse where you can take classes on landscaping, pumpkin carving, pairing herbs with wines, etc.). Kids and adults will both enjoy the centerpiece installation, Forks in the Road: Food, Wine and the American Table, a feast of sensory information surveying the evolution of our dining habits. Through a menu of playful yet serious interactive displays, COPIA demonstrates that we are indeed what we eat. A wall of iconic chef Julia Child's copper cookware greets guests. Expect everything from ancient utensils to Pez dispensers, examples of American inventive ingenuity from microwaves to Jell-O, videos of seminal commercials to recordings of gastronomically inspired songs (i.e., UB40's Red Red Wine; The Inkspots' Java Jive; Shirley Temple's Animal Crackers).
We strolled through the well-marked edible gardens, which children will also love exploring. We longed to try the restaurant, Julia's Kitchen (emphasizing organic produce grown there), but alas didn't have time. Even Cornucopia, COPIA's gift shop, represents its namesake's reputation for bounty: gourmet packaged and fresh foods, specially crafted wines, interesting kitchenware, gardening tools, books, even gastronomically-themed jewelry and stationery. Its kids' section sells high-quality doll-sized cookware, child-sized gardening and art kits and creative games. COPIA's cup also runneth over with changing exhibitions curated by experts in their fields. The recent example, Salad Dressing: Food in Fashion, featured costumes created as art, couture, theater and advertising — a tongue-in-chic smorgasbord commenting on women's changing roles, the commercialization of food, even the evolution of pop culture. Sprinkle with regular hands-on workshops, demonstrations, mini-tastings, lunch series (with lessons), outdoor concerts and movie screenings and you have COPIA's recipe for thought-provoking entertainment.
For many locals, the Valley's "art and soul" are its fabulous museums and architectural gems. Just west of Napa, the DI ROSA PRESERVE nearly defies description. One of the collection's predominant features is the incredible number of whimsical and quirky artworks that appeal perhaps even more to children than to adults. (Indeed, as you drive onto the property, your first sight is Veronica di Rosa's giant Floating Cow.) Here are a few of the items that grace the front yard:
Former vintner Rene DI Rosa and his late wife, Veronica, spent 40 years collecting top Bay Area artists, jumpstarting many careers in the process. The Preserve features more than 2,000 works by 800+ artists, one of the world's most comprehensive collections of regional art. DI Rosa eschews descriptive title cards that place art in a definable context or create expectations based on an artist's reputation. Consequently, no time is wasted on learning the who and when of the art — leaving the viewer's senses open to experiencing the art! DI Rosa favors figurative over purely abstract pieces — "identifiable objects . . . that lead you into new realms." Kids of all ages will adore the David Best assemblages — notably, cars embedded with found objects (toys, marbles, costume jewelry, pudding molds), the montage humorously commenting on the detritus of commercialization and technology. Conceptual wunderkind Samuel Yates's Minuet in MG (2001) is a seven-story, 65-foot tower — the world's tallest file cabinet, according to Guinness. He shredded and steamrolled a 1974 MG Midget sports car, then photographed, bagged, numbered, labeled and filed into metal file cabinets that are stacked on top of one another all 1,832 pieces by weight: the witty damnation of a consumer-driven society desperately recycling its overabundance. The collection is open daily Tuesday through Friday and tours, offered Tuesdays through Saturdays, require reservations. Tours span the 217-acre property. Unfortunately, because of a few edgy photographs that depict or suggest nudity, sexual overtones and drug use, one building is left off the tour that welcomes families (the Sculpture Meadow & House Tour), though we found nothing at all offensive in this magical collection that would preclude taking children. We were truly overwhelmed by the once personal residence that is part of all of the tours. Don't miss this. Everywhere one looks — from the kitchen to the bathroom and even on the ceilings — is art, much of it whimsical. A highlight in good weather is strolling the pastoral grounds, sprinkled with 150 pieces ranging in media from bronze to ceramics. Live peacocks strut about like walking artworks, that faux cow floats on the lake and white ceramic arms salvaged from a Petaluma junk shop sprout from the grass like impish or imploring spirits. The DI Rosa Preserve is a dazzling reminder that art, like nature, surrounds us if we but open our eyes and hearts. The DI Rosa OFF THE PRESERVE! GALLERY on Main Street in downtown Napa presents intriguing, changing exhibits of work by cutting-edge artists, as well as performance art and lectures. Unfortunately, there's only a short window in which to see this gallery which is closing 12/30/04. If it's up and running, don't miss the Downtown Napa Chefs Market. This lively, virtual street fair (held Fridays 3-9pm in warmer weather) is a great way to interact with locals, sample various wines and fresh produce, view demonstrations by chefs and artisans and listen to local bands. We spent a delightful evening strolling through the market, walking in and out of local shops — eating and drinking along the way. A particularly nice touch was the availability of wine glasses that one could carry off after purchasing the wine and, when finished, drop off the empty glass at numerous spots along the way. While strolling in town, we happened upon Café Society, a fun funky antique store that bills itself, "where art meets life." Owner Joan Osborn specializes in "European lifestyle bistro décor" items designed to evoke that invigorating café atmosphere in your home. We took advantage of their free Internet service, something your kids might do while you shop or have a coffee. For another delightful treat, try Anette's Chocolate Factory. Patrons can watch Anette and her brother Brent at work during the daily tastings, as they craft sinfully delicious truffles, spoonable fudges, caramels, chocolate wine sauces and more, often from 50-year-old recipes. IF TIME PERMITS
Located just behind the Napa Valley Inn are Gondola Rides, which we had no time to enjoy. Authentic Venetian gondolas ply the Napa River, with gondolieri in elaborate costume. Their store, located in the complex, sells exquisite Venetian masks and glass. A three-hour scenic gourmet dining excursion on the Napa Valley Wine Train from Napa to St. Helena and back receives mixed reviews, but there's no denying the splendor of the restored 1915-1950 Pullman dining and lounge cars, which lend dual meaning to the term vintage. And the twice-monthly Kids Ride Free/Family Fun Nights make it a comparative bargain. Parents savor a quiet, uninterrupted gourmet 4-course dinner (not including wine), while a professional caregiver entertains children in a separate car with games, movies and a meal. The exquisite 1879 Napa Valley Opera House doesn't mount Puccini or Wagner programs (it was named to differentiate it from saloons and burlesque houses), but once hosted masquerade balls, political rallies and concerts as well as readings by leading luminaries of the day. Abandoned after a 1914 earthquake, it was lovingly renovated and reopened in 2002. Parents will appreciate the film programs and provocative lecture series. Everyone will enjoy leading jazz musicians, stand-up comedians and theater (which have spirited Gilbert & Sullivan productions and the Missoula Children's Theater — updated, re-imagined musicals). Though we're not big hot air ballooning fans, many families enjoy soaring together. Both Balloons Above The Valley and Napa Valley Balloons offer one-hour sunrise excursions which include a delicious champagne brunch served picnic-style in a vineyard setting. But, we are big proponents of kayaking and were sorry that we didn't have time to sign on for a trip with Napa River Adventures. Owner Kevin Trzcinski and his crew are very patient with children (and cranky parents). They offer excursions by single or double kayak and canoe down the river, once a vital commercial link, now notable for the riparian ecosystems along the banks and 600 acres of protected wetlands. You can also take a marshland birdwatching or sunset cruise in their deluxe, comfy motor launches. Not far from Downtown, Playground Fantastico, a wacky retreat envisioned by local kids and constructed by dedicated volunteers, includes a castle, rocket ship, river and giant animal sculptures. Call for the entertainment schedule, including puppet shows and folkloric dances. At the Jessel Gallery, poet/painter Jessel Miller showcases her works in a tranquil, historic 10,000-square-foot stone building nestled amid lavish gardens. Her Vineyard View and Young at Heart print series (and imaginative children's books) combine the wild colors of Peter Max with the lines of Art Naïf and the honest landscape sensibility of 19th century French realists. Young children will find these prints captivating. In addition to the Valley's galleries, antique stores and boutiques, shopaholics can wallow at Napa Premium Outlets, including Dansk, Mikasa, Liz Claiborne, Barney's New York, J.Crew, Kenneth Cole and Ann Taylor.
Greystone offers a number of courses open to the public which require advance reservations. The restaurant offers some particularly nice touches, such as free booklets that describe various cooking techniques and a list of the Valley's top wineries with hours of operation, fees and tour specifics. Following such a big lunch, we decided to have a small dinner, heading first for ZuZu in Napa, having heard about their fine tapas menu. There was a wait, so we ended up at the Wine Bar of the wine merchants, Bounty Hunter. They too offered small dishes and several wines by the glass (curiously, most were from overseas!). They also run off-road adventure excursions through Napa Valley in Pinzgauer war wagons, including private cave and vineyard tours, suitable for older children. One day we had reservations for lunch at The French Laundry, where we spent four hours indulging in some of the most amazing food we've ever eaten. I had the nine-course menu, David the five-course. Somehow they managed to serve both meals without either of us feeling rushed or slighted. In fact, having sat and drank for so long, we took a break about 21/2 hours into our meal to stroll in the garden. This once-in-a-lifetime experience justifies the waiting list for reservations, but it's extremely expensive and not appropriate for children. And, although we had canceled our dinner reservation at Auberge du Soleil (there's just so much one can eat in a day), we drove up to take a look and to chat with the new Executive Chef, Joseph Humphries. Joseph had been at Aqua in San Francisco and was actually the chef who hired our son Russell for his Culinary Institute of America externship. The sun-drenched restaurant/bar terraces, as well as the ivy-swaddled cottages drunkenly zigzagging up the hillside, boast picture-postcard panoramas of the vine-studded valley below. Fresh seasonal regional produce is the sublime restaurant's focus (alongside a wine list the size of Napa's phone book). Managing partner, George Goeggel (himself an accomplished painter), provided one last master brushstroke for the resort. Along with noted St. Helena gallery owner Ira Wolk, he created an incredible outdoor sculpture gallery. The collection comprises nearly 110 works in various media by 65 California sculptors, displayed throughout the beautifully landscaped 33-acre property amid olive trees, meandering paths, terraced rock walls and a stream.
THE LONG AND WINING ROAD No trip to the Napa Valley is complete without visiting at least one winery. If you select carefully, your kids might even decide that these visits are fun! The first winery we visited, Yountville's Robert Sinskey Vineyards, was a result of having had a terrific wine at the French Laundry. Even though we walked in near closing, they welcomed us graciously. The atmosphere is low-key, which can be an advantage for touring. Sinskey is celebrated for its Pinot Noirs, but we really loved lesser-known varietal bottlings like Pinot Blanc and Cabernet Franc! Even better is their commitment to organic, sustainable winegrowing. The owner's daughter-in-law, Maria Helm Sinskey, is considered one of California's top chefs (her latest cookbook is available for sale); the winery offers marvelous Artisan Cooking Classes. Best of all, they didn't blink an eye when we asked them about bringing along kids, indicating that this was a frequent occurrence which they were well equipped to handle! We bookended our trip by visiting Calistoga's Chateau Montelena, a recommendation from the sommelier at Greystone. The winery is historically significant, not just architecturally but because it produced the first California Chardonnay to "defeat" leading French Burgundies in comparative, blind competition (back in 1976). Montelena is best known for its slinky yet dense Cabernets. The Chateau's lovely grounds include gardens and Japanese teahouses; the guides do a fine job of explaining how vines are profoundly influenced by "terroir" (a word embracing soil, climate, elevation, available sunlight, precipitation and much more). Although they told us that kids were not currently welcomed on their tours, they were willing to rethink this policy. We thought that kids would find the tour very interesting (although they might get a bit bored during the tasting session). These were the only two wineries we had time to visit; there are so many more. For a roundup of those we feel are most amenable for families, check out Jordan Simon's selection on wineries. CAVORTING IN CALISTOGA
After leaving Chateau Montelena, we stopped at Old Faithful Geyser, less than a five minute drive from the winery. Fun and informative, we did feel that it was a bit pricey (there are often Internet specials), but all of the kids there seemed enchanted by the spewing of this natural geyser, which lasted no more than 15 minutes and, fortunately, was ready to go moments after we arrived. It's one of only three geysers worldwide that erupts on a regular schedule (every 45 minutes), and is a geological phenomenon. If you haven't been to Yellowstone, this is a good option. Across the street from Sterling Vineyards, Clos Pegase is worth a stop for owner Jan Shrem's superlative art collection, ranging from ancient Japanese porcelain through Italian Baroque statuary to such modern masters as Dubuffet and Arp. Architect Michael Graves designed a prize-winning facility that showcases Shrem's "enduring passions, art and wine." This postmodern Grecian temple-meets-factory sits amid Tuscan cypress trees and vineyards, its exterior echoing the surrounding soil and mountains. Shrem even "plants" sculpture by the vineyards (most wittily, a six-foot bronze thumb), while Henry Moore's "Gaia" (Mother Earth of myth), ushers visitors into the majestic courtyard. Even more spectacular are the caves tunneled 150 feet into the rock. This 20,000-square foot facility has a cathedralesque feel. Clos Pegase is truly "estate of the art." The Ca' Toga Galeria d'Arte and Villa exclusively features the works of Venetian artist, Carlo Marchiori, who created murals and frescoes for the opulent Vegas retreat, Bellagio, and Singapore's venerable Raffles Hotel. The gallery itself is a work of art. An amazing 44x23-foot barrel vaulted ceiling mural depicts mythic characters and creatures, from the fall of Icarus (whimsically sporting an astronaut's helmet) to the 48 Ptolemaic constellations. The sparkling terrazzo floor actually charts the pre-Copernican universe, with the sun, moon, stars and comets orbiting Earth. The outdoor patio overlooking the river is filled with Thai "spirit houses" and cracked Roman fountains - all spouting from Marchiori's fertile mind.. Every Saturday morning, May through October, Marchiori opens his Italianate residence/workshop for personally guided tours (open to ages 12 and over). Nothing is what it seems in this fantasia of faux forms and follies. The garden and grounds' architectural "ruins" (columns, statues, temple, fountains, grottoes) were fashioned by Marchiori from wood scraps, construction-site discards, fiberglass, tiles and broken hunks of sidewalk concrete. Seemingly every surface of the interior is decorated, from glazed painted tiles to wood beams to frescoes depicting Pompeii and Venetian masked balls. Yet even the frescoes are a clever, astoundingly dimensional trompe l'oeil: they're actually house paint on canvas plastered to the walls, proving that artistically the hand is quicker than the eye! This is yet another enchanting place to plan to visit. We were surprised there was no place to rent bikes in the town of Napa. But Calistoga's Getaway Adventures offers everything from mountain bikes to tandems. The friendly staff provides maps and suggested routes. Owner Randy Johnson also leads casual day treks combining biking, hiking, kayaking (and wine tasting). A support van follows in case anyone becomes fatigued. The staffers ensure everyone observes safety precautions and Randy is a font of information on local history and geology.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION The Napa Valley Conference and Visitors Bureau offers one-stop shopping for nearly all information on the Valley's attractions, wineries, shops and restaurants. Be sure to pick up the local magazines for additional suggestions. In Napa, the Bureau is located at Napa Town Center. (226.7459/ www.napavalley.org) Napa River Inn: 877-251-8500/251-8500/ www.napariverinn.com Greenhaus European Day Spa: 866-869-1495/257-8837/ www.greenhausspa.com DI ROSA PRESERVE: 226-5991/ www.dirosapreserve.org Lodging Options: The Valley offers inexpensive-to-moderate chain options (Embassy Suites, Comfort Inn, et. al.) and plentiful quaint B&Bs, many of which are not amenable to kids. An option just outside the town of Napa, is the exclusive Silverado Resort & Spa, which features two Robert Trent Jones Jr.-designed 18-hole golf courses, a 16,000-square-foot spa and several family programs. (800-532-0500/257-0200/ www.silveradoresort.com) If time isn't a concern, you might want to break up your visit by staying further "up valley." Meadowood, in St. Helena, is another luxury resort with golf course, spa, fine dining and lovely grounds; it resembles a 19th century New England cottage compound/country club. (800-458-8080/963-3646/ www.meadowood.com) Yountville's Vintage Inn and Villagio are under the same ownership. Most families will feel more at home at the former (which sports a French Provincial look), while enjoying privileges at the more Tuscan-styled Villagio (including extensive spa facilities). You can enjoy the pool, hot tub and bike rentals; Yountville's many marvelous restaurants are a short stroll. (Reservations for both: 800-351-1133 Vintage Inn: 944-1112/ www.vintageinn.com Villagio Inn & Spa: 944-8877/ www.villagio.com) Delightfully quirky Calistoga features older, "historic" spa resorts, a tad shabby but comfortable, where you can take the "mud" and the waters while the kids roam the grounds. The landmark Dr. Wilkinson's Hot Spring Resort received a recent facelift. (942-4102/ www.drwilkinson.com) Friends also recommend Golden Haven (942-6793/ www.goldenhaven.com). Both are reasonably priced. Early reservations are recommended as Napa Valley lodging fills up quickly. You might call Napa Valley Reservations Unlimited (800-251-6272/252-1985) or visit the Napa Valley Visitor's Bureau website.
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