Serengeti in Sonoma
Fast Facts: Safari West: 800-616-2695/707-579-2551/ www.safariwest.com
The Range Rover was bouncing along the road to the rhythm of Ladysmith Black Mambazo when I spotted them. Wide-eyed, as elegant and graceful as Degas ballerinas, their coats glistening red even under a gloomy sky — a herd of tiny Thompson's gazelle. Okay — full disclosure here — it wasn't really a Range Rover, it was a mini-van . . . and it wasn't the Serengeti, it was Sonoma County, California, a place known more for its wines than its wildebeest. But by golly, those really were Thompson's gazelle! My friend, FTT contributor, Lisa Hettler-Smith, and I had piled the kids — my two, Rudy, age 11, and Calvin, age 7, and her two, Graham, age 12 and Aaron, age 11 — into her car, and left laundry, homework and husbands behind, to trek from San Jose for a safari adventure at Safari West, in Santa Rosa, California.
As we swung in through a rustic entrance gate flanked by metal crane sculptures, I found myself transported thousands of miles from the bustle of Silicon Valley. Wisteria and roses mingled with Australian flax and native grasses, giving way to rolling hills, grasslands and forest. Tent cabins spread out near the giraffe enclosure and climbed up the hills. The landscaping and buildings were accented by African art. Stepping out of the car, we could see giraffes and ostriches. We watched as a photographer "shot" a print ad featuring one of Safari West's twin cheetahs, and we fell under the spell of a character I came to think of as the Safari West mascot — a curious and amusing 40-year-old Great Indian Hornbill named Delilah, who was holding court on the patio outside the Savannah Café.
HOME AWAY FROM HOME
We were all eager to check out our digs. One of the Safari West staff helped load our luggage into a golf cart and, after a bit of bickering over who got to ride in the cart, we began our gentle climb up the hill to tentcabin number 29. These were nothing like the tent cabins I remember from the mosquito-filled summer camp of my childhood. While the boys climbed around outside looking for lizards, Lisa and I took our time ooh-ing and ahh-ing over the polished hardwood floors and big, comfy looking beds. Rustic yet artistic touches, such as the polished manzanita light fixtures, the furniture made on-site by owner Peter Lang and the hammered copper sink in the bathroom, completed the elegant decor. Our large deck was up high enough to give us that in-a-tree-house feeling, boasting a lovely view of Catfish Pond and the hills above it, which were dotted with antelope-like creatures sporting long scary-looking horns. The two queen-sized beds were thoughtfully outfitted with electric blankets for chilly nights. The staff had provided floor pallets and extra bedding for the kids. There was also a space heater, which kept the room toasty. Instead of the traditional mini-bar, we found a cooler on our deck stocked with bottled water. That evening, slipping into our warm and comfy beds was especially delicious with the sounds of the African night surrounding us. We later learned that the African night sounds — especially those coming from the lemur enclosure — can be a little too . . . stimulating . . . in the wee hours in some of the lower cabins. But up in number 29, we slept like babies. Lisa and I agreed that the accommodations were perfect, except for one thing — cold bathrooms! Because of venting requirements, the bathrooms are unheated. This caused some cold . . . umm . . . feet the next morning! SAFARI BEST
After our arrival, and checking out our sleeping quarters, it was time for some up-close animal viewing. As raindrops began peppering our deck, I wished I could curl up with a book, a glass of wine — this being, after all, Sonoma, appearances to the contrary — and a view of the surrounding hills. But our two o'clock tour beckoned. The first beast we struck up an acquaintance with was a 1954 Dodge Power Wagon, an open-air vehicle with bench seats behind the driver, and room for three or so kids in the "look-out" area above the driver's seat. Our guide, Bud, sternly informed the kids to "hold on tight — because they take $5 out of my paycheck for every one I lose!" and our tour was on. Bud was both funny and informative as we bounced along through the ostrich and giraffe enclosures and into the fields and forests of some of the less well know of the African hoof-stock: addax, eland, bongo, Cape buffalo, and scimitar-horned oryx (which was what I had seen from our deck), scattered throughout the oak-studded hills. En route, we learned some interesting facts. Did you know that the Cape buffalo is considered one of Africa's five most dangerous animals, and has been known to kill humans and lions? We had no trouble believing it, as we gazed at these humungous creatures. ONE MAN'S DREAM Bud talked about the ranch and its mission. Like most big dreams, the idea for Safari West started small, when Lang (whose father, Otto Lang, directed the Flipper and Doktari television series) acquired three eland antelope for his Southern California ranch. Soon, his Texas longhorns were replaced with all manner of African hoof-stock, and the now Africanized ranch was moved to its present site in Northern California. Children's tours followed, then tours for the entire family. A couple of years ago, the Langs built tent cabins to accommodate overnight guests. Today, Safari West is home to over 400 animals and birds, many of them endangered or extinct in the wild.
Back in front of the Savannah Café, we began the walking portion of our tour. Our first stop was the giraffe enclosure where we fed the giraffes by hand! Their noses are even more velvety than they look, and their tongues improbably long. Graham told me that this was his favorite part. We watched as Joy, an addax that shared the giraffe enclosure, pestered one of her much larger pen-mates into playing a game of tag. We met a mother bongo and her new baby, Danny. We watched the twin 2-year-old cheetahs frolic, and visited the walk-in aviary. One little winged fellow — a tinamou — seemed to take great joy in repeatedly tweaking a delighted Calvin's pant leg with his beak.
FEEDING TIME Dinner exceeded our expectations. Had it been warmer, we would have dined on the patio, which surrounds an enormous traditional African fire pit where most of the meats are cooked. Instead, we ate in the attractive indoor dining room, seated at long tables, family-style, and were invited to help ourselves to a buffet filled with grilled chicken, pork, and roast beef, roasted rosemary potatoes, broccoli, several salads and peach pie with raspberry sauce for dessert. Everything was well prepared and extremely tasty. However, the highlight of the meal wasn't the food, as delicious as it was. To our delight, one of the staff brought a baby African porcupine and let everyone meet and pet him. At first glance, petting a porcupine might not sound appealing; a rodent, an adult weighs in at between 40 and 60 lbs; and then there are all those quills. Yet, there was something so incredibly cute and engaging about this one that we just fell in love with Mr. Bejeebers, the star of the evening! Continental breakfast the next morning was just fine: coffee, fresh juice, milk, bagels, pastries, English muffins, yogurt, cereal, and granola were all available. SAYING GOODBYE "Look! They're porking their pines!" shouted my son Calvin. We were watching feeding time at the porcupine enclosure, and were just in time to see the creatures amble out of their burrows and raise the quills on their back, perhaps in greeting to the girl who was feeding them. Before saying goodbye to Safari West, we were all surprised by the quality of merchandise in the gift shop. Many were handcrafted by cooperatives in Africa: my son Rudy was especially taken with a hand-carved chess set; I fell in love with a dog collar woven in a traditional pattern by members of the Masai tribe. I couldn't think of a better present for my dog, Elsa, a Rhodesian Ridgeback. There was jewelry, tons of educational books, and an entire loft full of high quality stuffed animals. WE WERE PETRIFIED As for the boys, their favorite part of the visit was stopping at the visitor's center with its small museum and gift shop, which focused on shards of petrified wood, ancient shark's teeth, fossils, geodes and polished stones . . . it was a veritable Aladdin's cave for the under-13 set. ELEGANT EDIBLES Luck was with us when we chanced for lunch upon Willi's Wine Bar in Santa Rosa. The place couldn't have been more inviting. Despite the "luxe" touches — a copper ceiling, art glass fixtures, gilt mirrors and original artwork — the overall effect was curiously one of casual comfort and warmth. The seasonally-changing menu at Willi's features small plates meant for sharing. Like the décor, the food manages to be both upscale and homey. I was worried about how Cambozola Macaroni and Cheese with Cauliflower and Sweet Onions, Beet and Goat Cheese Ravioli, Cracked Hazelnuts, White Truffle Oil, and BBQ Baby Back Ribs, Pomegranate Molasses and Pickled Onion Salad would fly with our mostly white-bread gang. Not only did the kids wolf it down, they've been asking to go back ever since! PEANUTS ON PARADE Our next and last stop in Santa Rosa was the Charles Schultz Museum. Located right in the 50's flavored downtown, this small, low-key, low tech museum is without a lot of bells and whistles . . . just as Charles Sparky Schultz (1922-2000) would have wanted it. My kids were most impressed with the re-creation of Schultz's study, and the 1951 mural he created for his daughter, Meredith's Nursery, painted with characters that were precursors to many of his now well-known and beloved Peanuts characters. The museum featured a gallery of cartoons — both Schultz's and the works of others, a studio where aspiring artists can try their own hand at creating cartoons, and — the hands-down favorite — a small theater playing nonstop Peanuts cartoons. I enjoyed the Peanuts-inspired art installations by Japanese artist, Yoshiteru Otani. Outdoors are a tranquil garden and a labyrinth walk. After our museum visit we strolled across the parking lot to the ice arena, which Schultz built for the city of Santa Rosa, and where he played his favorite sport, ice hockey. There we watched the skaters twirl around on the ice as we enjoyed ice cream and coffee at The Warm Puppy Café. At the next table was a poignant sign: Reserved for 'Sparky' Schultz.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION Willie's Wine Bar is on the Old Redwood Highway in northern Santa Rosa, near the turnoff to Safari West. Small plates cost from $6-12 each. (707-526-3096) The Petrified Forest costs $5/adult. $3/ages 4-11: $4/ages 12-17. Calistoga is a lovely wine country town best known for its spas, where you can soak in volcanic mud baths. It has a cute historic downtown with wonderful restaurants and shops. You can also take a glider ride for a birds-eye view of the valley; a great stop with older kids. (707-942-6667/ www.petrifiedforest.org) The Charles Schultz Museum and Research Center is in Santa Rosa. Entrance is $8/adult, $5/kids, 3 and under are free. The museum opens at noon on weekdays, 10am on weekends and is closed Tuesdays. (707-579-4452/ www.schulzmuseum.org) The Warm Puppy café, as well as the Redwood Empire Ice Arena, are open daily (707-546-7147/ www.snoopyshomeice.com)
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